My mother was a good cook and enjoyed sharing food with not only her family but also those she considered friends. A gift that was particularity loved was her "rum cake." Italian rum cakes are renowned, and there are many recipes in cookbooks and shared in family recipe boxes. Unfortunately, I never really got the recipe. I can only make some of it, but the totality eludes me. Neither my three sisters nor I can replicate my mother's cake. I have vowed to try and recreate this delicacy. It was a major part of most family celebrations and holidays.
The rum cake was a labor of love and took fully two days to prepare. The cake itself was an 8-9 inch square sponge cake. (I have yet to produce a suitable cake for this delicacy. One of my sisters, an excellent baker has tried and come close.) The cake recipe was from her beloved Fannie Farmer Cookbook. Mother would bake the cake, carefully cool it, then wrap it in cling film to rest overnight. Once rested, the cake was ready for assemblage, and that was where the magic came in.
The cake was cut into three layers. This required both deft hands and daring. Each of the layers got a separate treatment. Before the cake could be put together two custard fillings were made -- cooked and cooled. The fillings were usually almond and orange or lemon flavored, seldom vanilla. The custard was only part of the filling. Before the cake could be assembled, mother would make and cool a syrup of rum and sugar. A rum cake without rum --unthinkable.
The part that, as a child, I was most familiar with was the solid part of the filling, chopped almonds and maraschino cherries. Mother always bought whole almonds with their skins on. I am not sure if this was out of necessity or preference. The almonds were cooked in water until the skins loosened, then each almond was individually slipped out of its skin. I enjoyed skinning the almonds, of course, sneaking a taste. The cherries often had to have stems removed before they were chopped. These could also make their way into snacks for the helpers.
Things that had to be chopped were put in a wooden bowl. Mom did not have a food processor. She had children. A semi-circular blade, a mezzaluna, was used to chop. Our blade was so old that the handle had long since split and been replaced by a functional, but ugly, homemade wooden handle. The blade itself was sharpened on a stone, since it was a good sharp steel knife. Older children were entrusted with chopping the almonds and cherries. Mom carefully supervised to make sure that the consistency was just so.
With all of the parts ready, the cake was ready to be put together. Each layer was treated with the rum syrup, then the almond and cherry mixture was applied, and each layer was topped with custard. The top layer of the cake got a generous application of the rum syrup. The cake was then once more set aside to cool and let the flavors meld. Just before serving or presentation, it was frosted, no slathered, with rum flavored whipped cream. A small slice was all one ever needed of this wonderful cake with its delicious custard and cheery cherry and almond filling.
Someday I will be able to replicate this delicious cake. For now I must rely on my memories of making and enjoying my mother's marvelous cake.
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